Note: I would advise to NOT make a dog drag around a leash if he does not like the leash yet. Do this in stages instead.
First, make sure the dog is okay being handled. See handling shyness: http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=AElTVoIPlOw
First, make sure the dog is okay being handled. See handling shyness: http://www.youtube.com/watch?
Then make sure the dog is okay wearing a collar
Leave collar on the ground. If the dog glances at the
collar, mark and reward
If the dog sniffs at collar, mark and reward.
Next pick up the collar, mark and reward
Next reach towards dog with collar, mark and reward
Next barely touch dog with collar, mark and reward
Next hold
the collar in front of the dogs face, feed a treat through the collar
Next put the
collar on briefly but do not snap it on, mark and reward
Put the collar
on for a couple of seconds, treat, then take it off.
And so on
until the dog is okay wearing the collar.
If the dog still appears to be uncomfortable. Do one, some or all of the below
1. Vet check for pain or other problem
2. Try a different collar
3. Break down the desensitization process further. Maybe acclimate the dog to some light gauze draped around his/her neck before using a collar. Maybe an ace bandage next (just draped) and eventually move up to something as heavy as a collar.
4. Get help from a skilled professional.
The above also applies to harness acclimation (the gauze would go across the dog's back like a harness)
If the dog still appears to be uncomfortable. Do one, some or all of the below
1. Vet check for pain or other problem
2. Try a different collar
3. Break down the desensitization process further. Maybe acclimate the dog to some light gauze draped around his/her neck before using a collar. Maybe an ace bandage next (just draped) and eventually move up to something as heavy as a collar.
4. Get help from a skilled professional.
The above also applies to harness acclimation (the gauze would go across the dog's back like a harness)
Personally,
I like the collar for only holding ID.
For safety I walk dogs in a martingale/harness combo. Harness for comfort
and safety (protect the dog’s neck, trachea and thyroid) and martingale backup
for safety – reduces the chances of slipping loose
See collar and harness safety: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrwdNoYFyyk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DvLhV1BHMw
Here is a good video on harness acclimation. But I would not use the type of harness in the video. Not secure enough:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DvLhV1BHMw
Here is a good video on harness acclimation. But I would not use the type of harness in the video. Not secure enough:
Then work on leash acclimation:
Start with a very light weight piece of cloth or rope. Hold
it close the dog's harness, mark and reward, then do something fun with the
dog. You can do this a few time as long as the dog is having fun.
Next, quietly clip on the leash, mark and reward, take it
off and go do something fun. Try this a few times as long as the dog is having
fun.
Next, leave a lightweight, 1 inch piece of cloth on the
harness. Let the dog move around with it on (under heavy supervision). If the dog seems
bothered by it, take it off. Then try something shorter and/or lighter.
Later, increase the length by a couple of inches.
Start seeing how the dog feels about you
picking up the leash occasionally. Maintain heavy supervision while the dog is
wearing it.
Still supervising, work your way up to 6 feet or whatever
length you plan to use.
You can
start working on loose leash walking before you start using the leash. It’s
actually better that way.
See
Then, while you are in a
secured area, you can work on taking on and off the leash and dropping and
picking up the leash – see Leslie McDevitt’s Leash Game in her “Control
Unleashed” Book
When you are ready to take
it outside, take it slowly. If the dogs appear to be afraid of the outside,
see: http://blog.mysanantonio.com/ latrenda/2013/01/dog-does-not- want-to-go-for-walks/
Also for any training and
for loose leash walking, you might need to “proof”. Often times proofing doesn’t
work well in the beginning with two dogs. Many times, you will need to work
with one dog at a time, then add dogs
See more on proofing and
loose leash walking here:
and here
More on loose leash walking
here
http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2014/07/loose-leash-walking-summary.html
How to mark and reward: http://blog.mysanantonio.com/ latrenda/2013/03/clicker- training-part-ii/
Also, if your dogs aren’t
comfortable with strangers, start walking during the least busy times of day
and keep away from strangers and other scary things:
Avoidance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FECNOS2wUWQ
More on fearful dogs here: http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2013/09/how-do-i-fix-my-scared-and-nervous-dog.html
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